France
Location/area: Chanteuges en Auvergne
Date: 4/5 June 2023
So that driving away feels like that, the first stop is around 600 km from Basel.
Landed in a beautiful natural park on the Allier River, we are on our way to get out and about!
Green expanse, birdsong, rushing water. After arriving in the rain, the sun soon tickles. Impressive view of the Chanteuges Priory, canoeists en passage, small sandy bays - clearly a place for more than one night. The municipality makes around one hectare available in this area for free camping; apart from a squat toilet and a water connection, there is no infrastructure here. And that's good!
Silvio captures the sounds, I capture the warming rays of sunshine. Discover maxi bonsai under giant trees, marvel at the church bells, whose tinkling indicates the time twice before the hour. A wonderful landing in another era!
Location/Area: La Bastide-l´Évêque, Dep. Aveyron/Occitania region
Date: 5/6 June 2023
The journey through lush greenery, soft hilly landscapes and small towns promises an immersion in nature and agriculture. We have left the tolls behind us, petrol stations have obviously largely been abolished here and there is an “Aire” on every corner, as the rest areas in France are called.
At the “Ferme Les Marmours” the friendly owners Corina and Pascal provide a parking space for vans. Since they hardly get away from the farm, they maintain social contact by constantly inviting new guests. Today we are the lucky ones!
It is a magical place, the farmhouse built in 1849 with fruit and vegetable gardens, sustainably renovated by Corina and Pascal.
They consistently practice permaculture and have sheep, chickens, ducks and pigs, happy animals indeed, on over 1 hectare of land.
The vegetable and herb garden, a pond with goldfish and frogs in front of the former wash house converted into a greenhouse, niches and hidden oases of peace everywhere - a wonderful place to relax!
In the small shop we stock up on delicious regional products, chat with our hosts and enjoy.
Oh, I almost forgot to mention the ever-restless teenage dog Oxo and the two cats Caramel and Graffiti who keep visiting us!
Spain
Location/area: Deba, Camping Itxaspe, Pais Vasco
Date: June 8th - 11th, 2023
After stops in Lavardac, Nouvelle-Aquitaine region at the lock below the town and in Henday - on a private property above the city on the Basque coast - we are now immersed in Spain.
After four days on the road in diverse landscapes, visual delights and pure nature, the city lady needs a decent shower and our van needs new water.
We land at a small campsite and find a spot on the top with a sea view of the breathtaking “Rita del Flesch”. An impressive cliff area in which spectacular reliefs and formations have been created over a long period of time. Definitely not a swimming spot, but beautiful!
Grab our camping neighbor Uta and enjoy the fairytale landscape with her while hiking between forests, old bridges and the sea. Today my constantly chattering fitness app is happy with me!
Relaxing days, my hammock dangles invitingly and the company of Uta and Jürgen from Essen enrich the social life!
Cleaned and groomed, it's time to discover new things!
Location/area: San Vicente de la Barquera, Cantabria region
Date: June 11 - 12, 2023
Even the name of the pretty little town tempts you to visit!
San Vicente de la Barquera is on the route of the Way of St. James, and the old town is recognized as a “Conjunto historico-arstistico”.
Since the weather is a bit unstable at the moment, we stock up on rain jackets. And no, of course we didn't forget them in our luggage, but the Spanish models are simply more stylish!
Cozy aperitif, we can go shopping later - we thought. Since the weather doesn't feel like a long siesta break, we simply ignored the Spanish opening times. Everything happened between 14 and 17! Well, it's not so bad, we'll just leave out the other “nice to have” for now.
We find our place for the night just above a long sandy beach, wonderful views and fairly cold water.
For the culinary enjoyment we were hoping for, we walked about 1.5 km up, and on the way there we discovered a promising hotel restaurant.
Spectacular view, huge outdoor terrace, inviting bar! Unfortunately the kitchen is still closed this season. At the bar we could have gotten senseless drunk from the endless drinks menu, but we modestly decide on a brandy and wobble back to our mobile kitchen. Was good too! Many stars for Silvio's kitchen!
Location/area: Near Ribadeo, Bay of Biscay, Gallicia region
Date: June 13 - 14, 2023
After a wild, stormy night of thunderstorms near Ferrero, we set off early before we got stranded in our bus in the middle of nowhere.
The small town of Ribadeo is worth a stop, harbor enjoyment and stroll.
Today we head to Diego's beach bar with a huge change, he makes his area available for camping. Bar sounds good, and beach - Praia dos Castros - to me anyway. Determined to eat with him, Diego keeps him waiting! Tuesday is his rest day! So we hike a bit again and... we find what we're looking for, next to a cow pasture with fresh calves.
In the morning the beach bar comes alive, Diego and his team prepare for lunch. We enjoy the fresh coffee, stock up on some necessary and even more unnecessary tips, and enjoy the palaver.
We pack the unique T-shirt - which can only be found at Diego's - several times in a shopping frenzy before we continue our journey. The order for Tino was carried out and our clothes box was enriched with a treasure!
Location/Area: À Coruna and Puerto de San Pedro
Date: 14/15 June 2023
We are camper greenhorns! We start off happily with our two gas bottles and think that this will last to the end of the world! Well, now we've already reached the halfway mark with one bottle. The Spanish and Portuguese valve connections are absolutely not compatible with our fancy Swiss things - says the Internet and every gas station you drive to! Well, hot water only in emergencies, fridge minimal, we've learned something again!
Taxes À Coruna on, city life and full of memories of my trip around 14 years ago. I'm leaving out the winding old town, cozy squares, the various sights here - you can read about them everywhere digitally or analogue.
A huge cruise ship lies oversized next to small boats in the harbor, a romantic old carousel stands unnoticed in an unspectacular place. One of my favorite towns on a headland, magnificently guarded by the Tower of Hercules, considered the oldest operating lighthouse in the world!
Southwest of À Coruna we park our van at a quiet viewing point. Some briefly stationed visitors enjoy the fantastic sunset, a middle-aged couple sits wordlessly on their folding chairs and waits... we watch along and soon we are alone in the silence!
Location/area: Pontevea and Santiago de Compostela
Date: 15th-17th June 2023
17 km below Santiago we find the cozy place of Pedro, who has created an atmospheric place with the Entrepontes cooperation. On an area of over 3.5 hectares, it provides free places for camping on the meadow and under trees, free for members, other connoisseurs pay a modest donation. We are almost alone on Friday, but on the weekend a few Spanish families relax with us.
Right next to a small, public bathing area, Pedro and his crew also run a cozy bar, a real jack of all trades!
On the road with his favorite machine - a decrepit garden tractor - he mows what the grass can hold. Mostly very close to me, I keep shaking myself free of all the blades of grass like a wet dog.
Enjoy my bathing pleasure among the ducks and frogs, treat myself to a sunbath and know that as an experienced Rhine swimmer I am on the safe side. It is quiet in this idyllic place!
A must the next day! Santiago de Compostela - but please without a car!
A bus leaves around 800m from our stand, we leisurely cross villages and landscapes and 20 minutes later… Estazionas del Autobus in Santiago!
We set our Google Maps to sleep mode and hang on to the many backpack-packed, rather worn-out hikers and know that we are on the direct route to the famous cathedral.
It stands gigantic, surrounded by medieval walls, including next to the former royal hospice “Hospital de los Reyes Católicos”, which has served as a place for travelers since 1509 and is now one of the most important and luxurious Parador hotels. And one of the oldest hotels in the world!
Indulge around other magnificent buildings and cozy squares, drift through the lively old town and treat ourselves to a few refreshments in between. There is still a lot to see, but our last bus is waiting!
To support Pedro's small, fine bar, we treat ourselves to a nightcap at home, a full day, our moving bed is waiting!
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Portugal
Location/area: Travassos da Châ, Albureira de Alto Rabagāo reservoir
Date: June 19 - 20, 2023
After a stopover in Muiños near the border, we landed in paradise. Well, we just continued on the gravel road out of curiosity. Surrounded by yellow gorse, purple grasses at the end of the world, alone! Fish jump, the water reflects gently... OK, now it's getting almost cheesy!
A small fireplace says someone has already been here. Manage to get a small fire going in an almost woodless area with dead gorse branches!
In terms of atmosphere, one of the most beautiful places on our trip, very windy, but wonderful to just be!
Location/Area: Vilar da Velga viewpoint at 700m, next to Parque National de Peneda Gares
Date: June 20 - 21, 2023
Breathtaking view, the height is almost dizzying for me when I look down. At first I'm a little unsure whether I want to spend the night in an area where, according to a sign, poisonous snakes and wolves can be found alongside wild boars, ibexes. But just switch to adventure mode, we spent the night without visitors and very quietly, it's okay!
Location/area: Braga and Barcelos
Date: June 21 - 22, 2023
On the way to Barcelos with its largest weekly market in Portugal - every Thursday - be sure to soak up some culture!
Near Braga we visit the Roman Catholic sanctuary “Bom Jesus do Monte” with its baroque monumental stairs that lead over a height difference of 116 meters. However, we visit this showpiece with the Elevator, an amazing feat of engineering from the 19th century. Even today it overcomes the 300 meters in altitude with the help of hydropower, a fascinating short journey to the top! Very nice complex around this place of pilgrimage, including a cozy little restaurant. A Porto Tonic before continuing your journey.
Landed in Barcelos, we find a spot on the grass behind the public swimming pool right next to the river, prepared for tomorrow's market attack!
According to the website, the outdoor swimming pool is now open, very welcome to cool off with the temperatures finally rising - the river is still a bit too cold now. Well, sometimes it varies a lot between the website and reality and I find myself in the indoor swimming pool, given a swimming cap and surrendering to my involuntary fitness plan with a few laps. Instead, I showered properly, dressed up and ready to go out into town - today armed with my rather neglected lipstick.
Barcelos is pretty, discover a cozy place, aperitif in the “Historical Caffe”, divine dinner in the “Restaurant Babette”, fish of course!
The next morning off to the hustle and bustle of the market, I love markets! It's huge, but we're a bit disappointed by the mostly typical, rather boring and repetitive stuff on offer; we don't find any of the arts and crafts that are capitalized on. Instead, the corner with the second-hand stands, loudly advertised by dealers. Silvio is thrilled by the sounds, I'm thrilled by the mountains of clothes and rummage through - of course I find what I'm looking for and indulge in my treasure trove. A nice to have, I know!
After more than a week with mountains, lakes and lots of greenery, in the afternoon we continue towards the northernmost coast in Portugal, craving waves!
Location/area: Caminha, small campsite at the mouth of the Minho river and the Atlantic coast
Date: June 22 - 25, 2023
Now we're in the mood for the sea, after more than a week of exploring the beautiful interior, I need a dose of the salty taste of the Atlantic and even have the choice between the river mouth and the currently very windy coast for my swimming and sunbathing pleasures! Silvio was clearly not a fish in his last life and is content with looking.
Open the awning, set up for a three-day vacation without traveling, find a shady place between old trees and… first of all, have an aperitif!
Walks along the wide coast, spontaneous boat taxi to Caminha, enjoy the lively life around the “Chafariz” (fountain) on the large village square, built in 1551. Incidentally, Caminha is located - separated by the Minho River - just below Spanish Gallicia!
We find time to record the stories, images and sounds we have experienced, to wash through our wardrobe and to just chill out in between.
Location/area: Carreço, Alberque Casa do Sardão, with Hugo and Alex on the meadow
Date: June 26 - 28, 2023
Playful place, refreshing little stone swimming pool, ideal for big goldfish like me!
Lie in a hammock amidst an explosion of passion flowers with a view of the sea 2km away, vines and many niches and places to be. You can feel the loving experience everywhere, pure hospitality.
We immediately landed with our tiny house in a large meadow next to horses and sheep, next to the Dutch woman Elsie.
Now all that's missing is the much praised sunset and the world is pretty rosy for this moment. The huge cloud of smoke over the Atlantic caused by the Canadian forest fires is messing with us, no matter, my imagination is endless right now!
For a delicious dinner in the Restaurante Sr. Bacalhau, about 2km away - divine food and wine, eh, wines - we use a short part of the caminho (pilgrim path) through the forest. A bit difficult way back, we cackle through the dark like two teenagers, of course the various flashlights are all nicely stored away in the van!
Location/Area: Ecovia, on the Rio da Lima River
Date: June 28 - 29, 2023
Since it is still very warm, we stay near the water for a while.
Beautiful local recreation area with swimming opportunities, meadows and stone benches. We are the only ones relaxing here, apart from the craftsmen on their lunch break. Lunch break in Portugal usually starts at 2 p.m.
Time to read, cook, go for a walk - and of course swim!
Place/area: Hotel Quinta do Portal, Casa das Pipas near Sabrosa and Alto Douro
Date: June 30 - July 1, 2023
Traveling through the Douro Valley without staying overnight at a winery is not possible!
On the way to our bijou we stop in the small town of Amarante, which lies on the forested banks of the Rio Tãmega. There we discover probably the funniest pedalos in the shape of animals. Can't decide between the cute dragon and the flamingo, so we walk across the granite bridge, built in the 18th century, a symbol of the population's heroic resistance against Napoleon's troops. A very charming little town.
Continuing on to the hotel, we are just amazed at the lush green of the vines, the wonderful light and the gentle hills, park our van protected from the sun
check into the small, beautifully restored hotel in the middle of the vineyards. Warm welcome with a glass of Porto, an all-round visual delight.
Me, fish, water - pool! At the moment we are sweating at over 30°, rarely high temperatures on our trip. I don't complain and enjoy the cooling and the inviting veranda.
The multi-course dinner in the Quinta do Portal restaurant about 500m away was simply divine, not cheap, but a rare culinary delight, conjured up by a young Portuguese chef.
And yes, we bought Douro wine and porto - a little.
The further journey through the Alto Douro area with its winding roads always offered new perspectives on beautiful landscapes or as the Portuguese writer Miguel Torga wrote: “An excess of nature” and “A geological poem”. I'll steal it straight away, this can't be described any better. Definitely one of the best things we've done on our trips so far, with or without a van.
We will definitely become repeat offenders. For once I'm almost speechless, Silvio's photos take over. Wonderful days!
Portugal return journey
Location/Area: Spain/France
Date: July 1st to 5th, 2023
This time our travel days are not unlimited, the trips are longer, traveling without a destination gets a summer break on our wonderful roof terrace and with side trips in Switzerland.
Basel's Badhüsli are waiting for me, as are grandson Leon!
We treat ourselves to a few more enjoyable moments and places: in Pampliega, Spain, near Burgos, we sunbathe by a small river, accompanied by ducks and geese.
In the Landes region we find the natural Camping du Toy, a magical place with many niches and country style. Since 1980, Vincent and his family have been enchanting their guests on several hectares, cooking regional dishes in the evenings and enjoying social gatherings in the Guinguette. Definitely a place to come back!
We camp “wild” again at Lac du Deiro near Soudeilles before moving into the castle park of the Château de L'Epervière in southern Burgundy for our last overnight stay.
Solid campsite, over 100 pitches, of course with a pool, restaurant and bar, as befits a castle.
Enfin, now we had the classic campsite experience for once, that's fine too.
Culinary artist Tino invites us from Basel to a culinary highlight, then we slowly set off!